Volantino Alitalia dal 1 al 31 marzo 2020 - pagina 62 - NON È PIÙ VALIDO

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Volantino Alitalia - 1/3/2020 - 31/3/2020. Pagina 62.
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GreatBeauty JOURNEY INTO THE WORLD OF PERFUME Niche perfumes are sparking ever more interest. Not just to those who want to wear an exclusive fragrance but also to multinational beauty companies who acquire small research brands. Here are some of the most fascinating places where you can find and try them OLFATTO DIGITALE Presso Pérfume by Calé a Milano il profumo si sceglie seguendo una diagnosi olfattiva tramite tablet. At Pérfume by Calé in Milan, customers pick their perfume via an “olfactory diagnosis system” made with a tablet. IL PROFUMO DI PARIGI La nuova Eau Capitale Diptyque rende omaggio alla città natale, dove fu fondata nel 1968, incarnandone l’eleganza distaccata. Founded in 1968, the new Eau Capitale Diptyque pays homage to its hometown, embodying its detached elegance. 62 _ ULISSE _ marzo 2020 The perfume business is getting bigger. And at the same time it is becoming more and more niche. According to data from the Centro Studi di Cosmetica Italia – the trade association of the cosmetics sector – in the last ten years fragrance sales have grown, from 900 million euros in 2007 to over a billion in 2018. The surprising fact about this phenomenon of artistic perfumery is how much of it goes towards satisfying an ever stronger desire for exclusivity, and clients’ wish for individuality and a reflection of his/ her own personality in products which cannot be found on the open market. This is because, according to Silvio Levi, owner of Calé, distributor of prestigious perfumery products since 1955: “Perfume is like a dress which reflects the personality of the wearer”. So much so that artistic perfumery made its debut with tailoring: it was a gift for the customer who bought bespoke clothing (made to measure, a term also used in perfumery), thus emphasizing a well-defined style. At the start of the 1900s Francois Coty vision of inaugurating “olfactory marketing” was a game changer: “Give a woman the best product you can create , present it in a package of simple but impeccable taste, give it a reasonable price and you will have success like you’ve never seen” he said, selling his fragrances in department stores instead of perfume boutiques. Artistic perfumery therefore is everything that existed before Monsieur Coty’s vision and has continued in the same direction “not with the ambition of being a status symbol - continues Levi but to express a concept and represent a style”. On the one hand, traditional perfumeries continue to aim to identify best sellers, whilst on the other, niche perfumeries strive to give each individual customer a different perfume, by offering exclusive service and personalized olfactory journeys.The customer can relax either sipping Moroccan tea in the new visually stunning venue of Zhor Parfums in via Monte Napoleone 14 in Milan, (where one is received with classic Arab hospitality – the founder has Middle Eastern origins), or within the walls of the seventeenthcentury Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy in via della Scala in Florence, where in the original rooms of the convent, between vaulted ceilings and frescoes one can buy medicinal as well as perfume products made according to Dominican BAR À PARFUMS Nelle boutique Olfattorio il profumo si sceglie come al bar, in bicchierini olfattivi. At the Olfattorio boutiques, customers choose their perfume as if they were in a bar: in small paper cup testers. friars’ ancient recipes. Back in the centre of Rome, in via dei Coronari 57, Laura Bosetti Tonatto, the world’s most famous Italian nose, recently opened her boutique, where there is a whole Essenzialmente Laura collection – body products and home fragrances - from the perfumier who created fragrances for Queen Elizabeth II. For 20 years the Bar à Parfums brand, created by Olfattorio – one of the leading distribution companies in Italy based in Turin –, has been in the scent business with its boutiques in Milan, Turin, Bergamo, Brescia, Genoa and Rome. Luli Gaidano, training manager and daughter of one of the founders, tells us «The name came about because we serve the perfumes in small “taster” cardboard glasses (patented by Olfattorio), which retain the fragrance for two months. Choosing a perfume is not a simple process and in this way the customer can take it with them for a while so as to get in tune with it». At Pérfum by Calé in Milan (in Corso Magenta 22) the choice of fragrance is via Nose (noseparis.com), an innovative olfactory diagnosis system based on 7 questions and 5 recommended perfumes (to which are added another 5 until the most suitable perfume has been found). From 2003 the artistic tradition has also been carried out in CampoMarzio70, first at the Rome store (at Campo Marzio 70), then in other stores outside of Rome - in Cortina, Milan, Forte dei Marmi, Riccione and Florence, as well as two franchises in Porto Cervo and Ravenna and corners in Naples, Pescara, Salò, Cagliari and La Rinascente in Milan. «CampoMarzio expresses the Essential Culture of our business» - explains Valentino Di Liello, General Manager and fourth generation perfumier. «Our intention is to promote the olfactory experience by stimulating and enthusing the customer. To this end we are involved in many activities, such as events and workshops, and are combining different sectors such as art, food or fashion. The customer who enters an artistic perfumery is knowledgeable, he needs to fall in love with – and go beyond - the olfactory path ● or the knowledge of perfume». ULISSE _ marzo 2020 _ 63

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